Corsair announced its first-ever gaming laptop today, the Voyager a1600. A sneak-peak was provided during AMD’s keynote at Computex today. The upcoming AMD powered device has some interesting features which are sure to get gamers and streamers excited.
The Corsair Voyager a1600 is part of AMD’s Advantage program. The Advantage program promises the best in AMD processor and gpu power combined with high refresh rate screens and adequate cooling.
Specs of the Corsair Voyager include a 16″ 2560×1600 IPS with a respectable 240hz refresh rate. FreeSync Premium is supported for smooth gaming performance. With up to a 8-core, 16 thread Ryzen 9 6900HS combined with a RX 6800M the Voyager a1600 should give gamers enough horsepower to play their favorite games with ease.
An Unique feature of the Voyager a1600 is the integration of Elgato streamdeck shortcut buttons above the keyboard. These ten buttons give quick acces to user-customizable actions without the need of an external device. Other nice additions are a high quality 1080p30 FHD webcam as well as 4 microphones with ambient noice cancellation.
Cherry MX Ultra-low Profile switches should make for a great typing experience. Corsair added their Cappelix Leds which can be controlled with their iCUE software. An integrated Corsair Slipstream Wireless receiver lets you connect up to three of their supported peripherals without taking up precious ports. Speaking of which, among these are two Thunderbolt 3-enabled USB 4.0 ports and a USB 3.2 Gen2 type-C port.
Availability and pricing will be announced later, for more information about the Corsair Voyager a1600 visit their website.
While a monitor is often an essential part of your (home) office you don’t have to sacrifice half of your deskspace for it. An easy way to tackle this is by getting an adjustable monitor arm. Luckily most monitors these days can be adjusted in height. They still have big clumsy feet though. A monitor arm can give you back your space and clean your desk up. On top of that they can add some ergonomic benefits.
On your desk you probably have a mouse and keyboard, maybe some speakers like the Razer Nommo Chroma. Or maybe a picture of you spouse or cat…. Now look at your monitor…Chances are the monitor stand takes a lot of precious deskspace. With a monitor arm you can take back a lot of that space! Most monitor arms also come with a cable management system which will further help you clean up your desk.
Sitting behind your desk, especially for prolonged hours can cause some serious issues. While more and more feet that come with monitors offer things like height and swivel adjustments a monitor arm also lets you change the distance between the screen and your eyes. It will also help you adjust for things like conference calls or meetings in front of your webcam. No longer will you need to maneuver yourself in awkward positions. With a monitor arm you can easily adjust you monitor to give you the center stage.
Important things to consider
Height adjustment on a monitor arm
Most monitor arms offer on the fly height adjustments by using a mechanical spring or gas cylinder. A mechanical spring monitor arm will usually last longer. On the other hand a monitor arm with a gas spring will operate more smoothly and silent. Gas spring monitor arms are the most commonly used by people who want to easily adjust their monitor. There are also monitor arms that don’t use either but instead use a screw mechanism to adjust their height. This is most suitable for people who tend to leave their monitor at a fixed height.
Size and weight
Knowing what size and weight your monitor has is important. Most monitor stands specify the maximum weight they are able to hold. Check if both your monitor and arm are VESA compliant. The VESA standard is there to ensure a monitor uses a standard hole pattern on the back. There are different sizes here so check is your monitor and arm offer the same options. For example 100 x 100 or 75 x 75 are sizes commonly used.
Mounting to your desk
Mounting the monitor stand itself can be done by clamping or a screw-in hole. If you don’t mind drilling a hole in your desk the latter is usually the most secure option. Clamping gives you more flexibility though if you want to change things up.
Here’s are some great options
Arctic Z1 (Gen3)
The Arctic Z1 is a good option for those who need a set and forget solution. This stand offers easy rotation and tilt options. It comes with an USB 2.0 hub for pass through of your keyboard and mouse for example. There is no gas-lift mechanism though so adjusting the height is something you wont be doing on the fly. Arctic also offers models with usb 3.0 hubs, without USB hubs and multiple monitor support.
The Arctic Z1 (Gen3) supports up to 34″ monitors or 38″ Ultrawide models with a maximum of 15kg.
The Iiyama DS1002C-B1 is a dual monitor stand which supports up to 10KG monitors. The stand doesn’t come with an USB hub but instead offers a clean looking desk solution. Monitors up to 30″ are supported. Iiyama also offers a triple monitor version which can be found here.
The Iiyama dual monitor arm supports monitor of up to 10kg per monitor and supports both the VESA 75×75 and 100×100 standards.
Amazon Basics Monitor Arm
The Amazon Basics monitor arm is a great bang for buck option. Its sturdy, has a built in cable management system and takes up little space. The Amazon basics arm is actually a rebranded Ergotron monitor arm. You can also buy a laptopstand to mount on the arm instead of the monitor backplate. So if you want to have both you will need to buy either two arms or a dual monitor arm with it.
The Amazon basics monitor arm supports up to 32″ monitors with a maximum of 11kg.
Dell Single monitor arm MSA20
The Dell MSA20 isn’t cheap but it is a very solid option. It is very sturdy and very adjustable. For those people who own a Dell monitor this is a very convenient option. For most Dell monitors you can just click the backplate right on the back of you monitor just like the original stand that came with you monitor does. If you don’t own a Dell monitor you can still use a normal screw-in connection thanks to its support for the VESA 100x100mm standard. The dell also offers a visual scale which will tell you if the monitor is too light or to heavy with your current adjustment settings.
The Dell arm supports monitors from 19″ to 38″ with a maximum weight of 10kg.
So there you have it, some examples to improve your ergonomics and take back your deskspace. There are of course more ways to achieve this. You could consider going with a wireless ultralight mouse and wireless compact keyboard for example. There are also ergonomically shaped keyboards like the Akko Alice and mice like the Logitech MX Vertical.
Dive into the world of mechanical keyboards and soon you will read about people lubing switches. People will talk about things like smoothness, spring-ping, switch openers. You might start to feel overwhelmed or unsure. You may ask yourself: “Can’t I just use my mechanical keyboard the way it is, what lube do I need, what tools do I need?’ In this article I will try to explain a bit about lubing along with some advice about what to look for.
The purpose of lubing switches.
The main purpose of lubing switches is to make keypresses feel more smooth and consistent. When lubed up the stem will slide in and out the housing a lot easier. The Crunchy sounds from bottoming out can also be reduced significantly.
You can always buy pre-lubed switches. However, lubing switches is also an important part for enthousiasts to make their keyboard feel unique
What do you need for lubing your switches?
Types of lubricant
If you are going to lube your switches it is important to choose the right lube. If your switch is of the tactile kind you will want a thinner lube. On the other hand when lubing a linear switch you should go for a bit thicker substance. For best results lubing the springs should be done with an oil-like substance.
My go to lubricant for tactile switches is Trybosis 3203. It gets the switch smoother without reducing the tactile feeling. That is, if you lube it right, more on that later. Thanks to its low viscosity it is quite easy to apply with a brush.
For linear switches the most used lube is Krytox GPL205 grade 0. This lube has more viscosity and is more buttery-like. An alternative to this could be Trybosis 3204. Linear switches are a bit easier to lube in that you don’t have to worry about not getting the stuff on the stem legs.
Personally I’d leave these alone. But if you want to lube these do the same as with the tactiles.
For the springs I recommend Krytox 105. Since The springs need to be as flexible as possible a thin oil is preferred here over a thicker lube.
What you need
First off you will need your choice of lubricant. For tactile switches Trybosis 3203. For linear Krytox GPL205 or Krytox 3204 and Krytox 105 for springs.
I recommend at least two small brushes. Grade 0 or 00 for example.
Switch opener for mechanical keyboard switches
A switch opener lets you open up the switches easy, fast and safe. There are several options here for example one from Homepage Homepage” target=”_blank” rel=”noreferrer noopener nofollow sponsored”>Ali-express or Epomaker.
For taking out your switches you will need a switch puller. I recommend something like this. Its a lot less prone to making scratches then some other alternatives and gets your switches out easy. An alternative is this 2-in-1 from Epomaker.
This is a handy tool to pick up your stem without getting the grease all over your fingers.
Shout out to Alex from Phoberos, Real cool guy who sells genuine lube on Etsy. He delivered fantastic service when my lube got lost in transit.
A Lubing station is an optional accessory which can come in handy while lubing a lot of switches at a time and you want to put the parts away safely.
Lubing the switches
Opening up your mechanical keyboard switches
Open up the switches by putting the switch in the opener and gently press down until the top housing gets off. After gently removing the top take out the stem and spring.
When lubing the housing a tend to do this only with the bottom of the housing. First paint on of the sides, then the other and then gently go around the outside of the center hole. All this with a very thin layer, you should not see any white residue.
The springs can be lubed with a brush but to avoid this tedious task many people tend to “bag-lube” the springs. Simply put about a pea-size of Krytox 105 in the bag and “paint” the inside of the bag. After this put the springs in, ad a bit of air by blowing in it and shake that thing!
And that’s it! you can put your switches bag together and enjoy the smoothness!
Opinions are my own. This article may contain referral links. By using these links you support this website and allow us to get products in for review and testing.
I have used a Logitech G502 for quite some time. I was very happy with it’s shape but especially with the infinite scroll wheel. Lately I have developed a pain in my wrists though so I started to look at an alternative. At first I tried a vertical mouse but this wasn’t my cup of coffee. So after browsing around and looking at lighter alternatives I stumbled upon the Sharkoon Light² 200.
The company Sharkoon
Sharkoon started making gaming products in 2003. Focusing on value for money Sharkoon has a wide portfolio of peripherals. Among the products being sold by Sharkoon are mice, keyboards, gaming chairs, pc cases. Other noticeable products include gaming headsets, DACs and mousepads. Sharkoon advertises their products as being “Designed in Germany”. Most of its products are focused on gamers who are looking for a good balance quality and affordability.
First impressions of the Sharkoon Light² 200
The mouse comes boasting its most important features on its packaging. My first reaction after opening up the box was a feeling of surprise. I was Surprised by how complete of a package Sharkoon delivers for its price. Not only are there two covers (a solid one and a honeycomb version) but also a selection of DPI buttons in black, blue and a red one that is a bit higher. Some extra extra mouse feet are also included. The mouse itself felt much lighter then my old one. The mouse has a very thin and light braided cable. It looks a bit like a paracord cable but unfortunately it is not of the highest quality. The sensor used is the Pixart 3389 optical switch.
These are the specs:
Shape and feeling
The shape of the mouse is an ergonomic one. It looks a lot like the Benq Zowie EC2 which is a classic many gamers have fond memories of. The curved shape and bump at the back, we have all seen it before. The shape together with the weight make for a comfortable experience weather you are used to claw-, finger- or palmgripping. The buttons feel well placed and the scroll wheel gives enough resistance while using it but isn’t too stiff either. The honeycomb design, being made populair in the mainstream audience by Glorious is a love it or hate it affair. The design makes its easier to shave of a lot of weight from a mouse. The caveat is that it also comes with the chance of getting dust and dead skin cells in your mouse.
Having used the Sharkoon Light² 200 on a daily basis for a few months I must say I was pretty happy with it. I really liked the shape which gave me plenty of grip and no pressure on my wrists. I used the honeycomb cover most of the time which took a bit of getting used to for me. After a while I didn’t mind it anymore except for the sides.
I wish they kept the sided solid, but Sharkoon does provide optional sidecovers. They don’t come with the mouse though.
One thing that I never got used to was the cable. It is so soft that I cannot really attach it to a bungee. It also attracts a lot of dust. The sensor has been great and accurate for me and all the buttons felt in the right place.
The feet of the mouse haven’t peeled off and the mouse still glides like it did the first day. The mouse buttons themselves have this little tiny ergonomic curve. This makes my index finger feel welcome each time it lands back there.
The side buttons are ok, but nothing special. They are easy enough to reach though.
Software and lightshow
Sharkoon provides a simple but decent software suite which is available on its website. The software is completely optional and it lets you set the dpi and RGB settings which can be saved to the mouse. One thing that is essential though is downloading the latest firmware. This improves the click latency to 4ms. you can find this firmware and software here. The RGB on the Sharkoon light² 200 comes in the form of a light bar on its back. I have seen stuff puking rainbows, but here it comes out the other way. I am not the biggest RGB fan but I wasn’t to bothered with this implementation.
The shape of a mouse is something very personal, I can dig the ergo shape myself. Sharkoon did a good job with providing more for less here. The mouse is very light, has great feet, comes with two covers, various dpi buttons and spare feet. The sensor is above average and the mouse buttons still feel great after a few months. The software is optional but do update the firmware for that lower click latency. What I didn’t like so much was the sides not being solid and the fact dust will get in easier. But hey, nothing a can of compressed air can fix, right? I did notice that the housing of my mouse began to squeak after a couple of months while gripping it tight. The cable attracts dust and is too thin for my taste.
For the price of around €35,- I think this is a very solid option if you are looking for something affordable, light and ergonomic. There are always sacrifices to be made in this price range but I think Sharkoon made the right ones here for the most part.
you can check the current price on Amazon.nl using these links:
The mouse was bought by myself and my own money. Opinions are my own. Links on this website may contain affiliate links. By clicking these you support the website to get more products in for reviewing.
In the past I have used Cherry brown and Gateron brown switches. Personally I found the Gateron switches better to type on and a bit smoother overall. After a while I wanted to change things up and I tried Gateron yellow switches which I used for quite a while. When I recently bought my Akko 3098B (review here) I had a couple of options to choose from. After having a hard time deciding what switch I wanted, I eventually went with the CS Silver switches. Unfortunately I discovered myself making a lot more mistakes while typing. This is mainly because the silvers are very light to press and a lot faster then what I was used to. Great for gamers, but not so for me. After Akko offered me to test some of their other switches and share my findings I decided to try out the Akko CS Jelly Purple switches.
Unboxing the Akko Jelly Purple switches
The packaging itself has tape with the purple Akko logo on it. Inside I found two boxes each contains 45 switches. The little boxes come with a wrapper covered with a plastic bag. There is no mistaking the switches that are inside with a nice looking picture of the switches and matching color. When opening the box the switches are found in an easy to open plastic container. Personally I appreciate this as it reduces the chances of getting bended pins. Other switches I ordered in the past on sites like Ali-express came in a jar or plastic bag and usually some switches had bend pins. Because of the excellent packaging absolutely zero of the Akko Jelly Purple switches had this issue.
Another Purple switch?
The Jelly Purple switches are part of the CS line of switches. The CS line are switches created after feedback from customers. Mostly these are upgraded versions of existing Akko switches. The Akko Jelly Purple is an improved version of the Lavender Purple switch. The biggest difference is the operation force which went from 36gf to 40gf. The tactile force as also increased from 50gf to 56gf.
Akko CS Lavender Purple
Akko CS Jelly Purple
36gf +/- 5gf
40gf +/- 5gf
4.0 +/- 0.5 mm
4.0 +/- 0.5 mm
1.9 +/- 0.3 mm
2.0 +/- 0.3 mm
0.5 +/- 03 mm
0.5 +/- 03 mm
50gf +/- 5gf
56gf +/- 5gf
Differences between the two purple switches
Both switches are of the tactile kind which offer a subtle “bump” while pressing the switch. Personally I really like feeling feedback while typing as it helps me make less mistakes. Other differences between the two purple switches are the fully transparent housing and the dustcover. Apart from keeping dust and your nasty eating habits away from the switch it also helps against wobbling.
Using the Jelly Purple switches
After testing the switches for about two weeks I can say I absolutely love these. They are great for typing but I don’t mind gaming with them either. I am no pro gamer but for my casual sessions I have no complaints. Comparing the jelly purple switch to my Gateron brown these feel smoother and have less ping. I did lube the switches which I usually recommend but the effect was not as big as with the Gateron switches.
Compatibility and RGB
Akko uses 3-pin switches which makes them usable for almost any hot-swap board. The CS switches do not cause interference with Cherry profile keycaps which is great. For those of you who can’t get enough of that rainbow puke there is some good news! Because the bottom of the switch is transparant colors really pop. If you want to go all Akko also sells clear keycaps! The Silver switches have the same transparant top housing but a solid bottom. I have added some pictures which show the difference side by side.
Lubing the Jelly Purple
Many enthusiasts recommend lubing switches. Not only does this make switches feel smoother it can also reduce unwanted ping. For lubing tactile switches I can recommend using Trybosis 3203. If you want to retain the tactile feeling of the switch you should avoid lubing the legs. You can find many tutorials online to help you out. When examining up close I noticed the switches having a bit of oil on them. After contacting Akko this was confirmed. They told me all switches have some factory lube on them but the pre-lubed versions get an extra more precise lubing treatment by hand.
I am very pleased with the overall feeling of the jelly purple switches from Akko. In fact I liked them so much that they are my daily driver for the moment and I ordered some extra ones myself. I find myself making less mistakes while typing compared to the CS Silver switches. This is of course very personal but if you like tactile switches I don’t think you can go wrong with the Jelly Purple switch. Want to order the switches right away and support our site, click here.
This product was send to me by the Akko. Opinions are my own. This review may contain referral links. By using these links you support this website and allow us to get products in for review and testing.
Asus has teamed up with the creators of the Neon Genesis Evangelion anime series to create a full line up of themed hardware dubbed ROG X EVANGELION. Fans of the anime series will be pleased to see they can build an entire themed setup. The fundation of any pc is the motherboard, Asus managed to make a beautiful version of the Z690 HERO supporting Intel’s current flagship processors. This board fully supports DDR5, has a convenient post code and massive heatsinks.
Asus didn’t stop there though as both the ROG STRIX RTX 3090 and the ROG STRIX 3080 get some ROG X EVANGELION love. The RTX 3080 and RTX 3090 are one among the most powerfull gpu’s on the market.
Other stuff in the ROG X Evangelion collection
Apart from the GPU there is a Case, a monitor (be sure to get a good monitor arm) and even a themed capturecard!
A computer without peripherals is like a car without wheels. Asus must have thought the same, so they also got you covered there. There is a gaming mouse , headset and offcourse a full size keyboard in the ROG X EVANGELION line-up. Maybe a Dragonball themed line-up in the future?
About two years ago I bought my first hot-swappable keyboard. I really liked the hot swap concept. After buying the board with Gateron browns I later switched to Gateron yellows. Soon I started to look at other possibilities like different kind of keycaps and cables. After that there was no turning back the rabbit hole, no light to be seen behind me anymore! I started watching Youtube video’s, reading blogs and forums regarding mechanical keyboards. Things like “tape mods”, “lubing”, “Thocky” etc. started to fill my head…. Ok I had to get my hand on new stuff! After having bought the Macaw keycap set from Akko for my Glorious board I started looking at what else they had to offer. I finally settled on the Akko 3098B.
Akko is a Chinese company which was founded in Shenzhen in 2016. They are widely known for their high quality double shot pbt keycaps like their Neon keycap set and beautiful special editions like the limited edition PC75B plus Year of Tiger 75% keyboard. Their keycaps come in beautiful boxes with a magnetic closing mechanism and a keycap puller. This for prices that are a lot more wallet friendly then those of GMK for example. The Cherry on the cake is here that there are no group buys or long waiting times. People gave Akko got some criticism about their keycap designs being quite similar to other more expensive brands in the past but lately they are releasing more unique designs.
Keycaps from Akko come in different profiles like Cherry, OEM and OSA but they also have their own ASA profile. This profile is almost the same height as OEM but the looks are more in line of SA. Akko has their own website for Europe as well. This saves extra risks of customs and tax costs as these are calculated at checkout.
Akko also sells various types of switches and collaborates with TTC and Gateron among others. Next the usual suspects Akko also has more and more switches in their CS line of switches. These switches are modified existing ones which have been adjusted after receiving feedback from customers. For the 3098B I have chosen the CS Silver switches which is a fast linear switch.
So much to choose from
After browsing online and comparing different switches I finally decided I wanted a 96% percent keyboard. This because I liked the fact my TKL was pretty compact but I missed my numpad. For me this was a good compromise. What I liked about the 3098B was the fact not all keys are were cramped together like some brands do. The next difficult task for me was to figure out which look I wanted. I finally decided I would go with something neutral with to option to add some flair to it.
Unboxing the Akko 3098B
The box itself has a cover which shows a nice image of the board itself in full color and on the back there are images of some important shortcuts like volume control and media keys. Inside the box itself the keyboard comes well protected with a dustcover, a plastic sheet and on top a nice protective layer of thick foam. There is a carton box at the top which holds the extra keycaps, a manual, an usb-a to usb-c cable, a wireless usb-a dongle for 2.4ghz connection and a keycap puller. Unfortunately there is no switch puller included. Lucky for me I had one laying around.
The board itself
The frame of the board itself is all black and has a little Akko logo on the front right. The standard keycaps are black with a yellow font and grey ones with the same yellow or “golden” font.
The added accent colors are very nice to look at indeed. Personally I am not using them at the moment because most of my setup is mostly (boring!) black. But I plan of putting them back in as soon as my matching aviator cable arrives! After a short test run with the keyboard I was very impressed by the stock feeling of the stabilizers. No rattling and need to throw these out for replacement. What a difference compared to my previous board! The stabilizers come pre-lubed but aren’t clipped out of the box.
Opening up the Akko 3098B
I gently opened up the keyboard by going around the frame with one of those triangular shaped opening picks. After that I removed some screws that were onder the keycaps and presto! Now the keyboard can gentlybe opened. Be careful not to take the SMASH approach, because the PCB has two removable wires connected to the battery compartment and daughter board. Between the PCB and upper frame is a layer of sound dampening foam.
On the bottom there is a blue silicone pad to reduce the hollow sound which a keyboard can produce. This isn’t worlds best solution but I was surprised by how good the keyboard actually sounds stock! Apart from remembering to put the cables back in their sockets be careful the align the little switch at the back of the PCB with the plastic slider seen in a cutout in the blue foam. Otherwise you will have trouble using the USB/MAC/WIN switch at the bottom of the board. I made this mistake the first time 🙂
Choosing between switches was one of the hardest things buying a new keyboard in my case. I wasn’t sure if I wanted to go with linear or tactile switches. I was leaning towards the Jelly Blue switches because they sounded interesting, having two tactile bumps. But I ultimately decided to go with the CS Silver, mainly because they got a lot of praise from people saying they were very fast and easy to operate.
Akko has an optional software called Akko cloud. It isn’t QMK or VIA but it gets the job done. There are customization options like macro’s, light affects and assigning different functions to keys. When first opening the software I immediately received both a firmware update for the keyboard itself and a software update. The software is completely optional and not required to use the keyboard. The included manual also points out the different shortcuts for using the wireless modes for example.
Overall I am quite impressed with what Akko delivers for around €99,- ex VAT. I think it’s insane value considering you get some great quality PBT double shot keycaps, extra keycaps in the gold theme, a wide choice of linear and tactile switches and a keycap puller. On top of that you get not only a wired option but also bluetooth + wireless 2.4 ghz. The size is just a little bit bigger then my previous TKL board but has almost the same functionality as a full size board. I love the fact there is a bit of space separating the arrow keys and the numpad from the main part of the board, this is the way! The stock stabilizers were actually very good and rattle free. The 3098B comes in many different colors and themes so chances are you will be able to find something that gets your freak on.
Too bad Home and End were sacrificed, who uses Ins? Well at least you can add those functions with the software Akko provides. Another thing I didn’t like so much was the fact the board was a bit hard to open. Oh and Akko, please provide a switch puller with your hot-swap boards 🙂 But that is just nitpicking especially since this board already is in pretty good useable condition straight out of the box. Even without mods this board is a solid option in this price range!
Very good price to quality ratio
Almost full size in function
Size just a bit bigger then TKL
Very good pre-lubed stock stabilizers
Wired + wireless options
Wide choice of themes and switches
Difficult to open
Missing Home and End keys
No switch puller provided
This review was originally posted by me in Dutch on Tweakers.net
If you want to get 10% off on any purchase on Akkogear.de just use coupon CLICKSMASHSTUFF or use this link.
This product was bought by the author. Opinions are my own. This review may contain referral links. By using these links you support this website and allow us to get products in for review and testing.