Tag Tactile Switches

The Monsgeek M1 which was launched recently has been very well received and has gotten a lot of positive reviews. Offering a solid set of features like a premium build quality, south-facing switches and QMK/VIA support for a competitive price. Now the sister brand of Akko is releasing it’s second keyboard; the Monsgeek M2. The M2 is a 1800 style, or 96% keyboard.

Why choose a DIY mechanical keyboard?

Mechanical keyboards, in general, have many advantages over commonly seen “standard” keyboards which use rubber dome switches or scissor switches. Among these advantages are a longer lifespan, responsive feeling and overall a better typing and gaming experience. The downsides of a mechanical keyboard will mostly be their price and sound which is often a bit louder then you get with a traditional rubber dome keyboard.

Monsgeek is one of the brands that aims to give more people acces to highly adjustable and customizable mechanical keyboards. So if you want a mechanical keyboard without a loud sound, you can put in some extra sound dampening foam in your keyboard and choose some silent switches like the Akko Silent Pink. You cand the review of these silent switches here. If you are a person on the other hand who likes to let the world know they are typing you can get some loud, clicky switches like Cherry Blue or Box White’s from Kailh.

Luckily as mechanical keyboards are becoming more mainstream, prices are coming down as well. The goal of Monsgeek is exactly this; providing more people acces to affordable, high quality and highly customizable keyboards. They let you choose your switches and keycaps, change the sound profile by adding or removing sound dampening material without the need of soldering.

Almost Full-size

The Monsgeek M2 is a keyboard which has an almost full size layout while being a roughly as wide as a TKL keyboard. This is great for people who like to use a numpad but don’t want a keyboard to take up all the desk-space. You will have to sacrifice some keys ofcourse but being a VIA compatible keyboard this won’t be a big problem since you can always move keys and functions. With a compact form factor that eliminates unnecessary keys, a 96% keyboard can help minimize desk clutter and reduce strain on the wrists and hands during extended typing sessions. Another benefit regarding ergonomics is that the reduce width will also keep your mouse arm from over stretching.

What you get when buying the Monsgeek M2

The Monsgeek M2 comes in a similar package as the Monsgeek M1 did. The Packaging is mostly black with some branding. Inside the pre-assembled keyboard is covered by packaging foam, a plastic cover and a protective cover. Also included are a manual and an optional sheet of tape for modding the sound profile. Next to the keyboard a cutout has been made where you will find the accessories like a coiled cable, screws, sound dampening teflon stickers and screw-in stabs. The keyboard comes assembled together but you will need to open it in order to put in the screw in stabs. These come pre-clipped and can be lubed by the user to bring out the best feeling. While the Monsgeek M1 models all had golden colored side bars, only the silver edition has kept this color, all the others have silver colored sidebars now. The Monsgeek Logo has also been engraved inside the bottom casing now, a very nice touch.

Building the board

Before opening up the keyboard I lubed the housing of the screw-in stabs with Krytox 205g0 and used dielectric grease on the wires. I disassembled the keyboard, put the teflon stickers under on the pcb where the stabs go, placed and screwed them and put the keyboard back together. I chose to use all, the provided foam layers and to not include the optional sheet of painters tape. You can check out some tips for lubing here.

Switches

For my build I used the Akko Snow blue grey switches together with the Jelly Purple‘s for the Numpad. I liked the idea of having some tactile feedback when using the numpad. I lubed both the switches, the Snow Blue Grey‘s with Krytox 205g0 and the Jelly purple‘s with Trybosis 3203, which is less thick. The Jelly purples tend to have a bit less wobble thanks to the dust covers they use. Both switches are semi-loud in use.

Monsgeek M2 and keycap compatibility

The Monsgeek M2 requires two functions keys on R1 in 1.5u size. It is important to check if your keycap set includes these. If you order keycaps from the Akko website you can choose MDA or SAL keycap sets which include the needed keycaps. I used the Ocean Star keycaps for this keyboard which uses the SAL profile. The SAL profile is a bit larger then the ASA profile most Akko keycaps have and the standard rows are all flattened out apart from the F and J keys which are slightly curved to help your fingers find their way. Personally though I think a different set of keycaps would have fit the silver option better like a white on black keycap set.

Impressions and conclusion

Like the Monsgeek M1, the Monsgeek M2 makes a solid impression. Building the board was, again easy enough. There are no squeaks or rattling sounds. There is a ping when not using the teflon stickers, but adding this between the two halves removes this issue. The board is, even without the addition of foam a bit on the stiffer side. For me this is fine, I don’t care that much for the overly bouncy gasket-style. Personally I used all the foam because I like a more dampened board. What I like less is the limitation in keycap compatibility because of the need of the 1.5 function keys in R1. Ofcourse most respectable premium keycap sets from brands like GMMK come with these keys and Akko also has the SAL and MDA keycap sets which offer these. I was told though that that a successor in the future will not have this limitation.

Would I recommend this keyboard? If you are looking for a 1800 or 96% style keyboard, then yes this is a very solid option. You get a premium build keyboard, great software and lots of customizability. Just make sure you buy the international version if you want VIA/QMK. You can order this version directly from Akkogear.de

Be sure to use coupon CLICKSMASHSTUFF to get 10% off (Limited time offer).

What I liked about the Monsgeek M2

• Solid build quality
• Screw in stabs included
• QMK/VIA support
• Coiled cable included
• Engraved logo on the back is a nice premium addition

What I didn’t like

• Somewhat limited keycap compatibility
• Price difference in Europe vs US (but no import and custom fees)

Linear switches and tactile switches are two of the most common types of mechanical keyboard switches. Both offer unique typing experiences and are favored by different groups of users. In this article, we will explore the difference between linear switches and tactile switches and help you determine which one is the best choice for your needs.

Linear switches

Linear switches are known for their smooth, consistent, and silent keystroke. They are popular among gamers who prefer a fast and uninterrupted typing experience. Linear switches lack the bump that tactile switches have, which provides feedback to the user about when a key has been activated. This makes them ideal for fast-paced gaming or tasks where accuracy is key.

many options to choose from

Since linear switches are so populair among gamers there are is a lot of choice here. There are people who want a switch to respond almost instantly, so called fast switches which have a short travel time like the Akko CS Silver. Others might be looking for a good budget switch like the Gateron Milky Yellow. Cherry MX reds are a classic ofcourse but there is something for everyone out there.

Tactile switches

Tactile switches, on the other hand, offer a bump or a tactile feedback when a key is activated. This bump provides an auditory and physical cue to the user that the key has been pressed, which can be helpful for touch typists who prefer to feel their way around the keyboard. Tactile switches are also preferred by writers and programmers who need to type quickly and accurately, but still want some feedback to help ensure they are pressing the correct keys.

Lubing

A big part of getting the best out of any switch is making sure it is lubed. Many switches come out scratchy sounding or don’t feel as smooth as they could be. You can read about lubing here. Don’t feel like doing this yourself? Luckily there are options out there like Akko Linear Black pre-lubed edition.

So which is best for you?

Both linear switches and tactile switches have their own pros and cons. Linear switches are faster and more consistent, but can sometimes be less comfortable to type on for extended periods of time. Tactile switches are slower but provide a more satisfying typing experience, and are often preferred by typists who need to type for long periods of time. In conclusion, the choice between linear switches and tactile switches comes down to personal preference and what you plan to use the keyboard for. Gamers who value speed and accuracy will likely prefer linear switches, while typists and writers may prefer tactile switches for their tactile feedback and comfort. Regardless of which type of switch you choose, both offer high-quality typing experiences that are sure to make your keyboard use more enjoyable.

Keychron is on a roll with their Q series of high quality boards for competitive prices. After their recent success with the Q1, Q2, Q3 and Q4 they now launched the Q5. The Keychron Q5 is a 96% or a 1800- style layout board. This layout is perfect for those who want to have a numpad without the bulk of a full-size keyboard on their desk.

The Keychron Q5 has, like all the other Q series so far, full VIA and QMK support. This is great for those who wish to be able to program their boards to their liking.

Build

Just like the other members of the Q series the Keychron Q5 is made out of a full metal CNC machined body. The Q5 comes with a double gasket design which not only uses gaskets on the plate but also between the top and bottom cases. According to Keychron this reduces the sound resonance between the metals. The board has hot-swappable sockets so its easy to change switches. Both 3 pin and 5 pin MX switches are supported. So you can use Cherry, Gateron or maybe some of those lovely Jelly Purples or Jelly Blacks from Akko! The Keychron Q5 comes with Screw-in stabilizers which is great for stability. Afterparty stabilizers from Cherry and Durock are supported as well. Enthousiasts will be happy to hear the board has a south-facing RGB layout. This makes the board compatible with Cherry-style keycaps.

Perfect size for numpad-lovers

The 96% or 1800 layout is perfect for those who love their numpad but don’t want the bulk of full-size. Basically the layout is very close to a full size. Some keys right of the spacebar are shrunken down like alt, shift and control. This and a smaller zero on the numpad make the left and right side of the board crawl closer to the arrow-island. The INS, Page UP and Page down buttons have been sacrificed on the knob version but these are still accessible through shortcuts. The version without knob only lacks an INS key. Of course with the Keychron q5 running with QMK and VIA you can re-program this to your liking. After owning both full size and TKL boards I currently use an Akko 3098B with the 96% and I find it to be the perfect middle ground.

Choices, Choices everywhere!

One of the hardest part buying the Keychron Q5 will be choosing version. There are three colors to choose from; Carbon Black, Silver Grey and Navy Blue. All three come in a fully assembled version or as a bare-bones option. When choosing the barebone version it is possible to get a ISO-layout as well, which is great for European customers! All models are Windows and Mac compatible!

To Knob or not to knob the Keychron Q5

Both the barebone kits and fully assembled options can be had with or without a knob. The knob by default controls volume but just like the rest of the board, this can be reprogrammed. Choosing a model with a knob sacrifices some dedicated keys on the board, so pick your poison here.

Keycaps and switches

Colors come in Carbon Black, Silver Grey and Navy Blue. All three have matching keycaps while choosing a fully assembled board. The keycaps are double shot PBT, OSA profile. The OSA profile are sculpted keycaps with a OEM hight with the curvature of the SA profile. For more on different profiles, read this article on mechlounge.com

When going for the complete package you get to choose from a selection of 3 switches. These are the linear Gateron Red, clicky Gateron Blue or tactile Gateron Brown. All three are the of the G Pro line-up. These switches come pre-lubed (except the Blue) and should produce less wobble then standard Gateron switches.

Pricing and availability

The Keychron Q5 is available now. Check for all models and pricing on Keychron.com

Or check out some great alternatives from Akko at the Akkogear.de store and use code RIEZ1984 to get 10% off!

Intro

Dive into the world of mechanical keyboards and soon you will read about people lubing switches.
People will talk about things like smoothness, spring-ping, switch openers. You might start to feel overwhelmed or unsure. You may ask yourself: “Can’t I just use my mechanical keyboard the way it is, what lube do I need, what tools do I need?’
In this article I will try to explain a bit about lubing along with some advice about what to look for.

The purpose of lubing switches.

The main purpose of lubing switches is to make keypresses feel more smooth and consistent. When lubed up the stem will slide in and out the housing a lot easier. The Crunchy sounds from bottoming out can also be reduced significantly.

You can always buy pre-lubed switches. However, lubing switches is also an important part for enthousiasts to make their keyboard feel unique

What do you need for lubing your switches?

Types of lubricant

If you are going to lube your switches it is important to choose the right lube. If your switch is of the tactile kind you will want a thinner lube. On the other hand when lubing a linear switch you should go for a bit thicker substance. For best results lubing the springs should be done with an oil-like substance.

Tactile switches

My go to lubricant for tactile switches is Trybosis 3203. It gets the switch smoother without reducing the tactile feeling. That is, if you lube it right, more on that later.
Thanks to its low viscosity it is quite easy to apply with a brush.

Linear switches

For linear switches the most used lube is Krytox GPL205 grade 0. This lube has more viscosity and is more buttery-like. An alternative to this could be Trybosis 3204. Linear switches are a bit easier to lube in that you don’t have to worry about not getting the stuff on the stem legs.

Clicky switches

Personally I’d leave these alone. But if you want to lube these do the same as with the tactiles.

Springs

For the springs I recommend Krytox 105. Since The springs need to be as flexible as possible a thin oil is preferred here over a thicker lube.

What you need

Lubricant

First off you will need your choice of lubricant. For tactile switches Trybosis 3203. For linear Krytox GPL205 or Krytox 3204 and Krytox 105 for springs.

Brushes

I recommend at least two small brushes. Grade 0 or 00 for example.

Switch opener for mechanical keyboard switches

A switch opener lets you open up the switches easy, fast and safe. There are several options here for example one from Homepage Homepage” target=”_blank” rel=”noreferrer noopener nofollow sponsored”>Ali-express or Epomaker.

Switch puller

For taking out your switches you will need a switch puller. I recommend something like this. Its a lot less prone to making scratches then some other alternatives and gets your switches out easy. An alternative is this 2-in-1 from Epomaker.

Jewelry crown

This is a handy tool to pick up your stem without getting the grease all over your fingers.

Tip: here you can find a complete package!

Shout out to Alex from Phoberos, Real cool guy who sells genuine lube on Etsy. He delivered fantastic service when my lube got lost in transit.

Optional

A Lubing station is an optional accessory which can come in handy while lubing a lot of switches at a time and you want to put the parts away safely.

Lubing the switches

Opening up your mechanical keyboard switches

Open up the switches by putting the switch in the opener and gently press down until the top housing gets off. After gently removing the top take out the stem and spring.

Housing

When lubing the housing a tend to do this only with the bottom of the housing. First paint on of the sides, then the other and then gently go around the outside of the center hole. All this with a very thin layer, you should not see any white residue.

Stem

Spring

The springs can be lubed with a brush but to avoid this tedious task many people tend to “bag-lube” the springs. Simply put about a pea-size of Krytox 105 in the bag and “paint” the inside of the bag. After this put the springs in, ad a bit of air by blowing in it and shake that thing!

Done

And that’s it! you can put your switches bag together and enjoy the smoothness!

Disclaimer

Opinions are my own. This article may contain referral links. By using these links you support this website and allow us to get products in for review and testing.

From brown and yellow to Jelly Purple

In the past I have used Cherry brown and Gateron brown switches. Personally I found the Gateron switches better to type on and a bit smoother overall. After a while I wanted to change things up and I tried Gateron yellow switches which I used for quite a while. When I recently bought my Akko 3098B (review here) I had a couple of options to choose from. After having a hard time deciding what switch I wanted, I eventually went with the CS Silver switches. Unfortunately I discovered myself making a lot more mistakes while typing. This is mainly because the silvers are very light to press and a lot faster then what I was used to. Great for gamers, but not so for me. After Akko offered me to test some of their other switches and share my findings I decided to try out the Akko CS Jelly Purple switches.

Unboxing the Akko Jelly Purple switches

The packaging itself has tape with the purple Akko logo on it. Inside I found two boxes each contains 45 switches. The little boxes come with a wrapper covered with a plastic bag. There is no mistaking the switches that are inside with a nice looking picture of the switches and matching color. When opening the box the switches are found in an easy to open plastic container. Personally I appreciate this as it reduces the chances of getting bended pins. Other switches I ordered in the past on sites like Ali-express came in a jar or plastic bag and usually some switches had bend pins. Because of the excellent packaging absolutely zero of the Akko Jelly Purple switches had this issue.

Another Purple switch?

The Jelly Purple switches are part of the CS line of switches. The CS line are switches created after feedback from customers. Mostly these are upgraded versions of existing Akko switches. The Akko Jelly Purple is an improved version of the Lavender Purple switch. The biggest difference is the operation force which went from 36gf to 40gf. The tactile force as also increased from 50gf to 56gf.

Both switches are of the tactile kind which offer a subtle “bump” while pressing the switch. Personally I really like feeling feedback while typing as it helps me make less mistakes. Other differences between the two purple switches are the fully transparent housing and the dustcover. Apart from keeping dust and your nasty eating habits away from the switch it also helps against wobbling.

Using the Jelly Purple switches

After testing the switches for about two weeks I can say I absolutely love these. They are great for typing but I don’t mind gaming with them either. I am no pro gamer but for my casual sessions I have no complaints. Comparing the jelly purple switch to my Gateron brown these feel smoother and have less ping. I did lube the switches which I usually recommend but the effect was not as big as with the Gateron switches.

Compatibility and RGB

Akko uses 3-pin switches which makes them usable for almost any hot-swap board. The CS switches do not cause interference with Cherry profile keycaps which is great. For those of you who can’t get enough of that rainbow puke there is some good news! Because the bottom of the switch is transparant colors really pop. If you want to go all Akko also sells clear keycaps! The Silver switches have the same transparant top housing but a solid bottom. I have added some pictures which show the difference side by side.

Lubing the Jelly Purple

Many enthusiasts recommend lubing switches. Not only does this make switches feel smoother it can also reduce unwanted ping. For lubing tactile switches I can recommend using Trybosis 3203. If you want to retain the tactile feeling of the switch you should avoid lubing the legs. You can find many tutorials online to help you out. When examining up close I noticed the switches having a bit of oil on them. After contacting Akko this was confirmed. They told me all switches have some factory lube on them but the pre-lubed versions get an extra more precise lubing treatment by hand.

Conclusion

I am very pleased with the overall feeling of the jelly purple switches from Akko. In fact I liked them so much that they are my daily driver for the moment and I ordered some extra ones myself. I find myself making less mistakes while typing compared to the CS Silver switches. This is of course very personal but if you like tactile switches I don’t think you can go wrong with the Jelly Purple switch. Want to order the switches right away and support our site, click here.

This review was originally posted in Dutch on Tweakers.net

Disclamer

This product was send to me by the Akko. Opinions are my own. This review may contain referral links. By using these links you support this website and allow us to get products in for review and testing.

Introduction

About two years ago I bought my first hot-swappable keyboard. I really liked the hot swap concept. After buying the board with Gateron browns I later switched to Gateron yellows. Soon I started to look at other possibilities like different kind of keycaps and cables. After that there was no turning back the rabbit hole, no light to be seen behind me anymore! I started watching Youtube video’s, reading blogs and forums regarding mechanical keyboards. Things like “tape mods”, “lubing”, “Thocky” etc. started to fill my head…. Ok I had to get my hand on new stuff! After having bought the Macaw keycap set from Akko for my Glorious board I started looking at what else they had to offer. I finally settled on the Akko 3098B.

Enter Akko

Akko is a Chinese company which was founded in Shenzhen in 2016. They are widely known for their high quality double shot pbt keycaps like their Neon keycap set and beautiful special editions like the limited edition PC75B plus Year of Tiger 75% keyboard. Their keycaps come in beautiful boxes with a magnetic closing mechanism and a keycap puller. This for prices that are a lot more wallet friendly then those of GMK for example. The Cherry on the cake is here that there are no group buys or long waiting times. People gave Akko got some criticism about their keycap designs being quite similar to other more expensive brands in the past but lately they are releasing more unique designs.

Keycaps

Keycaps from Akko come in different profiles like Cherry, OEM and OSA but they also have their own ASA profile. This profile is almost the same height as OEM but the looks are more in line of SA. Akko has their own website for Europe as well. This saves extra risks of customs and tax costs as these are calculated at checkout.

Switches

Akko also sells various types of switches and collaborates with TTC and Gateron among others. Next the usual suspects Akko also has more and more switches in their CS line of switches. These switches are modified existing ones which have been adjusted after receiving feedback from customers. For the 3098B I have chosen the CS Silver switches which is a fast linear switch.

So much to choose from

After browsing online and comparing different switches I finally decided I wanted a 96% percent keyboard. This because I liked the fact my TKL was pretty compact but I missed my numpad. For me this was a good compromise. What I liked about the 3098B was the fact not all keys are were cramped together like some brands do. The next difficult task for me was to figure out which look I wanted. I finally decided I would go with something neutral with to option to add some flair to it.

Unboxing the Akko 3098B

The box itself has a cover which shows a nice image of the board itself in full color and on the back there are images of some important shortcuts like volume control and media keys. Inside the box itself the keyboard comes well protected with a dustcover, a plastic sheet and on top a nice protective layer of thick foam. There is a carton box at the top which holds the extra keycaps, a manual, an usb-a to usb-c cable, a wireless usb-a dongle for 2.4ghz connection and a keycap puller. Unfortunately there is no switch puller included. Lucky for me I had one laying around.

The board itself

The frame of the board itself is all black and has a little Akko logo on the front right. The standard keycaps are black with a yellow font and grey ones with the same yellow or “golden” font.

The added accent colors are very nice to look at indeed. Personally I am not using them at the moment because most of my setup is mostly (boring!) black. But I plan of putting them back in as soon as my matching aviator cable arrives! After a short test run with the keyboard I was very impressed by the stock feeling of the stabilizers. No rattling and need to throw these out for replacement. What a difference compared to my previous board! The stabilizers come pre-lubed but aren’t clipped out of the box.

Opening up the Akko 3098B

I gently opened up the keyboard by going around the frame with one of those triangular shaped opening picks. After that I removed some screws that were onder the keycaps and presto! Now the keyboard can gently be opened. Be careful not to take the SMASH approach, because the PCB has two removable wires connected to the battery compartment and daughter board. Between the PCB and upper frame is a layer of sound dampening foam.

On the bottom there is a blue silicone pad to reduce the hollow sound which a keyboard can produce. This isn’t worlds best solution but I was surprised by how good the keyboard actually sounds stock! Apart from remembering to put the cables back in their sockets be careful the align the little switch at the back of the PCB with the plastic slider seen in a cutout in the blue foam. Otherwise you will have trouble using the USB/MAC/WIN switch at the bottom of the board. I made this mistake the first time 🙂

Switches

Choosing between switches was one of the hardest things buying a new keyboard in my case. I wasn’t sure if I wanted to go with linear or tactile switches. I was leaning towards the Jelly Blue switches because they sounded interesting, having two tactile bumps. But I ultimately decided to go with the CS Silver, mainly because they got a lot of praise from people saying they were very fast and easy to operate.

Software

Akko has an optional software called Akko cloud. It isn’t QMK or VIA but it gets the job done. There are customization options like macro’s, light affects and assigning different functions to keys. When first opening the software I immediately received both a firmware update for the keyboard itself and a software update. The software is completely optional and not required to use the keyboard. The included manual also points out the different shortcuts for using the wireless modes for example.

Conclusion

Overall I am quite impressed with what Akko delivers for around €99,- ex VAT. I think it’s insane value considering you get some great quality PBT double shot keycaps, extra keycaps in the gold theme, a wide choice of linear and tactile switches and a keycap puller. On top of that you get not only a wired option but also bluetooth + wireless 2.4 ghz. The size is just a little bit bigger then my previous TKL board but has almost the same functionality as a full size board. I love the fact there is a bit of space separating the arrow keys and the numpad from the main part of the board, this is the way! The stock stabilizers were actually very good and rattle free. The 3098B comes in many different colors and themes so chances are you will be able to find something that gets your freak on.

Too bad Home and End were sacrificed, who uses Ins? Well at least you can add those functions with the software Akko provides. Another thing I didn’t like so much was the fact the board was a bit hard to open. Oh and Akko, please provide a switch puller with your hot-swap boards 🙂 But that is just nitpicking especially since this board already is in pretty good useable condition straight out of the box. Even without mods this board is a solid option in this price range!

Pro’s

• Very good price to quality ratio
• Hot swappable
• Extra keycaps
• Almost full size in function
• Size just a bit bigger then TKL
• Very good pre-lubed stock stabilizers
• Wired + wireless options
• Wide choice of themes and switches

Cons

• Difficult to open
• Missing Home and End keys
• No switch puller provided

This review was originally posted by me in Dutch on Tweakers.net

Coupon

If you want to get 10% off on any purchase on Akkogear.de just use coupon CLICKSMASHSTUFF or use this link.

Disclaimer

This product was bought by the author. Opinions are my own. This review may contain referral links. By using these links you support this website and allow us to get products in for review and testing.