Tag Switches

Monsgeek is a sub-brand of Akko that focuses on high quality for a low price. Monsgeek’s first keyboard was the M1, a 75% aluminum model. Now there is the M1W SP where the W stands for Wireless. I will share with you my experience, the similarities and the differences between these two Monsgeek keyboards.

Complete package

Unlike the regular M1, the M1W SP comes as a complete keyboard. The keyboard comes assembled with switches, keycaps and stabilizers. Of course you can replace or adjust these parts yourself if desired. This has been made as easy as possible. For example, 5-pin sockets are used and the keyboard is easy to open with the supplied Allen key.

Specifications

Structure:
Gasket Mount

Connection:
Bluetooth5.0 / 2.4GHz / USB Type-C

Backlight:
South-facing RGB

Hot Swappable:
3-Pin / 5-Pin Support

N-Key Rollover:
Support

Battery Capacity:
6000mAh

Polling Rate:
1000Hz In wired and 2.4G mode, 125Hz in Bluetooth mode.

Macro:
MonsGeek Cloud Driver

Stabilizer:
1. Pre-installed Purple Plate Mount Stabilizer

2. Separate TPU Double-shot Stabilizers

Switches:
Akko V3 Piano Pro

Materials:
PBT Keycaps + Aluminum Case

Legends Printing:
Double-shot Side-printed Gradient Shine-through

Keycap Profile:
OEM

Product Weight:
Approx. 2.2kg

Dimensions:
33.3cm*14.6cm*3.26cm

Operating Systems:
Windows / macOS / iOS / Android

Package List:
Keyboard×1, Manual×1, Coiled Cable×1, Keycap Puller×1, Switch Puller×1, Teflon Pads (not pre-installed), Separate TPU Double-shot Stabilizers

Small changes from M1 to M1W SP

Compared to the regular M1, a number of improvements have been made. For example, the rotatable encoder has been slightly improved. It has an improved interior so that it gives even less friction and has become slightly higher. In addition, the poron case foam has become more elastic and the optional teflon stickers have recesses for the screw holes. These teflon stickers are intended for a so-called Force-break mod. As a result, there is less metal-to-metal contact, resulting in less ping. Furthermore, a dip switch has been added next to the caps lock switch. This allows you to choose Mac, Windows or wireless. Furthermore, unlike the regular M1, there are no screw-in stabilizers provided. However, plate mounted stabilizers (pre-lubed) are pre-installed and there is an extra set made with a different material to experiment with. The device still supports screw-in stabilizers however,

Opening the Monster like a Geek

Although the keyboard is basically ready for use, I still wanted to take a look at the inside of the M1W SP and immediately apply a force-break mod. The keyboard can be easily opened by means of 6 screws, which can be removed using the supplied Allen key. However, it is important to be careful when removing the mainboard because there are two cables attached to it that need to be unplugged.

The mainboard is very similar to that of the Monsgeek M1. Here too I notice that there seems to be room for RGB LEDs on the sides. I wonder if they want to release a variant with LEDs on the sides in the future. The sockets again come from Kailh.

Some small mods

I did a little bit of modding myself. For example, I used the supplied teflon stickers around the screw holes of the frame to eliminate the slight ping. I also placed the supplied tape mod on the back of the mainboard. I left out the bottom foam layer and put a layer of cotton wool in the bottom. This gives a slightly different sound.

It’s time for switches B……

The included switches are Akko’s recently released Piano Switches. These are linear switches that operate very smoothly. They have a slightly higher pitch or “clack”. They come well tuned from the factory and I have seen no need to lube them myself. This is also nice with a complete plate. I personally prefer to type with the cream yellows. these feel just a bit more smooth. So many people, so many wishes. Fortunately, there is a lot of choice when it comes to switches.

Ninja Keycaps

The keycaps that come with the M1W SP are of the so-called stealth type. The fonts are on the front instead of on top. Normally they are not visible, but if you turn on the RGB lighting, they come to life thanks to a small cut-out. There is no glow through the switches, which makes the whole look neat. The encoder does not transmit light. This feels sturdy and has a slightly different interior than the regular M1. It should be a bit more stable, although I’ve never had any problems with the regular M1. They are also interchangeable with each other. If you want to use some other keycaps you can take a look at the collection from Akko here.

Wireless connectivity

The big difference with the regular M1 is of course the wireless functionality. The past few days I have used the 2.4ghz connection through the supplied dongle. I experienced no problems and enjoyed the extra space on my desk. I was also curious if there wouldn’t be any problems with the signal between the keyboard and my wireless mouse (Logitech). I had seen a single user write about this online but I did not experience any problem with this. The connection with bluetooth also worked without problems. You connect the device by holding down the FN button in combination with the E R or T key. When it starts flashing you enter pairing mode. the next time you switch to the desired device by short pressing FN together with one of these buttons. The 2.4Ghz is the most stable connection after USB-C. Working with the wireless connection is excellent, just like casual gaming. However, if you want to play competitively in shooters, for example, the USB-C connection is of course recommended if you want the best possible connection.

Software

Unlike the regular M1, the M1W SP version does not come with QMK/VIA support. Instead, a proprietary suite is available called Monsgeek Driver. The interface is simply designed and offers various options to personalize the keyboard. For example, it is possible to move keys, create macros and FN layers and adjust the lighting. It is also possible to import custom profiles from other users. However, the encoder cannot be adjusted in terms of functionality. This controls volume or the intensity of the lighting.

Verdict of the Monsgeek M1W SP

The M1W ISO is an excellent variation on the standard M1. However, in addition to advantages, there are also potential disadvantages. This mainly depends on your own wishes / requirements. The wireless convenience is of course a big plus. The fact that both a 2.4Ghz and 3 different Bluetooth connections are possible is a big plus. In addition, the wired option will of course still be present.
Small quality of life improvements such as the improved Teflon stickers with cutouts for the screw holes, better material for the included optional sound-reducing mat and the improved encoder are welcome. The lack of VIA support can be a drawback for people who tweak their keyboard to their own liking. For many people, however, the included software will be sufficient. I do miss the integration of a key tester in the software.

The model I tested is the ISO version. I could easily get used to this layout. Although we in the Netherlands are mainly used to ANSI, this is not the case in other parts of Europe. Logitech also supplies mainly in the ISO layout in the Benelux, so there are quite a few people who prefer this layout. This kit is ideal for people who want to get started right away. The keyboard comes with good, smooth switches that don’t need work and high-quality keycaps in a stealthy look.

If all this appeals to you but you prefer an ANSI layout, this is also available and you can also choose from two other colors. They can all be viewed on the product page of the M1W series.

For this review I tested the M1W SP version which comes complete with switches and keycaps. For the DIY version you can check this link.

Coupon for first time orders

If this is your first order on Akkogear.eu and there is no current discount on the website you can use coupon HELLOAKKO to get 10% your first order!

This review was first post in Dutch on Tweakers.net link here

Akko send me this product for review, the links in this article may be affiliate links which help me maintain this website.

The Monsgeek M1 which was launched recently has been very well received and has gotten a lot of positive reviews. Offering a solid set of features like a premium build quality, south-facing switches and QMK/VIA support for a competitive price. Now the sister brand of Akko is releasing it’s second keyboard; the Monsgeek M2. The M2 is a 1800 style, or 96% keyboard.

Why choose a DIY mechanical keyboard?

Mechanical keyboards, in general, have many advantages over commonly seen “standard” keyboards which use rubber dome switches or scissor switches. Among these advantages are a longer lifespan, responsive feeling and overall a better typing and gaming experience. The downsides of a mechanical keyboard will mostly be their price and sound which is often a bit louder then you get with a traditional rubber dome keyboard.

Monsgeek is one of the brands that aims to give more people acces to highly adjustable and customizable mechanical keyboards. So if you want a mechanical keyboard without a loud sound, you can put in some extra sound dampening foam in your keyboard and choose some silent switches like the Akko Silent Pink. You cand the review of these silent switches here. If you are a person on the other hand who likes to let the world know they are typing you can get some loud, clicky switches like Cherry Blue or Box White’s from Kailh.

Luckily as mechanical keyboards are becoming more mainstream, prices are coming down as well. The goal of Monsgeek is exactly this; providing more people acces to affordable, high quality and highly customizable keyboards. They let you choose your switches and keycaps, change the sound profile by adding or removing sound dampening material without the need of soldering.

Almost Full-size

The Monsgeek M2 is a keyboard which has an almost full size layout while being a roughly as wide as a TKL keyboard. This is great for people who like to use a numpad but don’t want a keyboard to take up all the desk-space. You will have to sacrifice some keys ofcourse but being a VIA compatible keyboard this won’t be a big problem since you can always move keys and functions. With a compact form factor that eliminates unnecessary keys, a 96% keyboard can help minimize desk clutter and reduce strain on the wrists and hands during extended typing sessions. Another benefit regarding ergonomics is that the reduce width will also keep your mouse arm from over stretching.

What you get when buying the Monsgeek M2

The Monsgeek M2 comes in a similar package as the Monsgeek M1 did. The Packaging is mostly black with some branding. Inside the pre-assembled keyboard is covered by packaging foam, a plastic cover and a protective cover. Also included are a manual and an optional sheet of tape for modding the sound profile. Next to the keyboard a cutout has been made where you will find the accessories like a coiled cable, screws, sound dampening teflon stickers and screw-in stabs. The keyboard comes assembled together but you will need to open it in order to put in the screw in stabs. These come pre-clipped and can be lubed by the user to bring out the best feeling. While the Monsgeek M1 models all had golden colored side bars, only the silver edition has kept this color, all the others have silver colored sidebars now. The Monsgeek Logo has also been engraved inside the bottom casing now, a very nice touch.

Building the board

Before opening up the keyboard I lubed the housing of the screw-in stabs with Krytox 205g0 and used dielectric grease on the wires. I disassembled the keyboard, put the teflon stickers under on the pcb where the stabs go, placed and screwed them and put the keyboard back together. I chose to use all, the provided foam layers and to not include the optional sheet of painters tape. You can check out some tips for lubing here.

Switches

For my build I used the Akko Snow blue grey switches together with the Jelly Purple‘s for the Numpad. I liked the idea of having some tactile feedback when using the numpad. I lubed both the switches, the Snow Blue Grey‘s with Krytox 205g0 and the Jelly purple‘s with Trybosis 3203, which is less thick. The Jelly purples tend to have a bit less wobble thanks to the dust covers they use. Both switches are semi-loud in use.

Monsgeek M2 and keycap compatibility

The Monsgeek M2 requires two functions keys on R1 in 1.5u size. It is important to check if your keycap set includes these. If you order keycaps from the Akko website you can choose MDA or SAL keycap sets which include the needed keycaps. I used the Ocean Star keycaps for this keyboard which uses the SAL profile. The SAL profile is a bit larger then the ASA profile most Akko keycaps have and the standard rows are all flattened out apart from the F and J keys which are slightly curved to help your fingers find their way. Personally though I think a different set of keycaps would have fit the silver option better like a white on black keycap set.

Impressions and conclusion

Like the Monsgeek M1, the Monsgeek M2 makes a solid impression. Building the board was, again easy enough. There are no squeaks or rattling sounds. There is a ping when not using the teflon stickers, but adding this between the two halves removes this issue. The board is, even without the addition of foam a bit on the stiffer side. For me this is fine, I don’t care that much for the overly bouncy gasket-style. Personally I used all the foam because I like a more dampened board. What I like less is the limitation in keycap compatibility because of the need of the 1.5 function keys in R1. Ofcourse most respectable premium keycap sets from brands like GMMK come with these keys and Akko also has the SAL and MDA keycap sets which offer these. I was told though that that a successor in the future will not have this limitation.

Would I recommend this keyboard? If you are looking for a 1800 or 96% style keyboard, then yes this is a very solid option. You get a premium build keyboard, great software and lots of customizability. Just make sure you buy the international version if you want VIA/QMK. You can order this version directly from Akkogear.eu

Be sure to use coupon HELLOAKKO and get 10% off (Limited time offer).

What I liked about the Monsgeek M2

• Solid build quality
• Screw in stabs included
• QMK/VIA support
• Coiled cable included
• Engraved logo on the back is a nice premium addition

What I didn’t like

• Somewhat limited keycap compatibility
• Price difference in Europe vs US (but no import and custom fees)

Akko kicks of the 3rd series of their switches with the release of the V3 Cream Yellow and V3 Cream Blue. As those familiar with switches probadly guessed; the blue ones are tactile and the yellow of the linear kind. We are taking a look at the linear version today, provided for review by Akkogear.de.

Packaging

Just like the Snow Blue Grey switches these come with a new art style on the box wrapper. In the box it is still the same trusted and nice packaging Akko has provided with their other switches in. Every switch is individually placed in a plastic box which can easily be opened. The benefit of this packaging is that the risk of getting bend pins is reduced to almost zero. Storage and sortage of switches is also easy with these boxes as they are small and colored differently for each type of switch.

V3 Cream Yellow up close

You might have guessed the switches have a mostly yellow color to them, they remind me of these sweet banana candys. The bottom is made of PA, the housing a semi-transparant PC material and the stem is made out of POM. All of these parts have a yellow color scheme. Akko has used one of their extension springs here which is 18mm in lenght.

• Type: Linear
• Operating Force: 50 ± 5gf
• Total Travel: 3.5±0.3mm
• Pre-Travel: 1.9±0.3mm
• Tactile Position: N/A
• End Force: 58gf ± 5gf

Testing time!

I used the switches in a Monsgeek M1 keyboard, which was reviewed as well, and paired these with the MARRS keycaps from Akko. These keycaps have a cherry profile and had no compatiblity issues with these switches thanks to the extended pole used on the stem. I used the switches together with the Akko Jelly blacks which have a comparible operating force.

Typing experience

The Cream Yellow switches are pretty similair to Gateron Yellow in specs and are in the same ball park of Akko’s Jelly Blacks when it comes to the operating force of the switch. They do feel different to type on compared to the blacks though. The feeling is indeed buttery creamy mainly thanks to the different housing material. There is just a little bit amount of scratching when you listen up close but overall they are very consistent. Wobbling is minimal to none. From what I have heard from others, these are an improved Matcha Green feeling wise. I personally haven’t used the Matcha Greens though. Compared to the Gateron Yellow the Cream Yellows feel more consistant.

Sound

The Cream Yellow’s provide a nice creamy, clacky sound which appeals to me personally. Like feeling and feedback of switches this tends to be a personal thing. The material of the keyboard used is also a factor in this.

Gaming with the V3 Cream Yellow

The V3 cream yellow is a pleasant switch to use for gaming. It is a bit heavier then something like a Cherry Red which a lot of gamers use. I wouldn’t recommend these for people who want the fastest response while playing CS-GO. However If you are looking for a good overall switch with a smooth feedback and a little bit of resistance this might be a very balanced switch for you. I am not a heavy e-sports FPS gamer and I personally had a very good time using these switches while playing Hitman 3 and Atomic heart among other games.

Switch tester

Having a hard time deciding which type of switch you would like to use or compare some type of switches against one another? One option is to use a switch tester. The Akko x Monsgeek switch tester lets you try out 16 different switches from Akko, TTC and Cherry. The include the V3 creal Yellow and V3 Cream blue but also the Classic Cherry Red and the poplair Jelly Black and Purple switches. You can order the switch tester directly from Akkogear.de for €7,99 (ex.VAT). It’s a cost effective way to try out some of the most popular Akko switches without having to buy a whole package.

Value and conclusion

The price of these switches are very competitive at €8,99/$8,99 (ex. tax) for 45 switches. For this price you are getting very smooth switches straight out of the box which get even better after lubing. I can recommend these switches to people looking for a nice, smooth switch for mixed usage. These strike a nice balance between price and performance. They are not the heaviest, not the lightest switch and will probably appeal to most people sound-wise. These are perfect for people who use their keyboard for mixed usage like gaming and other everyday tasks.

Linear switches and tactile switches are two of the most common types of mechanical keyboard switches. Both offer unique typing experiences and are favored by different groups of users. In this article, we will explore the difference between linear switches and tactile switches and help you determine which one is the best choice for your needs.

Linear switches

Linear switches are known for their smooth, consistent, and silent keystroke. They are popular among gamers who prefer a fast and uninterrupted typing experience. Linear switches lack the bump that tactile switches have, which provides feedback to the user about when a key has been activated. This makes them ideal for fast-paced gaming or tasks where accuracy is key.

many options to choose from

Since linear switches are so populair among gamers there are is a lot of choice here. There are people who want a switch to respond almost instantly, so called fast switches which have a short travel time like the Akko CS Silver. Others might be looking for a good budget switch like the Gateron Milky Yellow. Cherry MX reds are a classic ofcourse but there is something for everyone out there.

Tactile switches

Tactile switches, on the other hand, offer a bump or a tactile feedback when a key is activated. This bump provides an auditory and physical cue to the user that the key has been pressed, which can be helpful for touch typists who prefer to feel their way around the keyboard. Tactile switches are also preferred by writers and programmers who need to type quickly and accurately, but still want some feedback to help ensure they are pressing the correct keys.

Lubing

A big part of getting the best out of any switch is making sure it is lubed. Many switches come out scratchy sounding or don’t feel as smooth as they could be. You can read about lubing here. Don’t feel like doing this yourself? Luckily there are options out there like Akko Linear Black pre-lubed edition.

So which is best for you?

Both linear switches and tactile switches have their own pros and cons. Linear switches are faster and more consistent, but can sometimes be less comfortable to type on for extended periods of time. Tactile switches are slower but provide a more satisfying typing experience, and are often preferred by typists who need to type for long periods of time. In conclusion, the choice between linear switches and tactile switches comes down to personal preference and what you plan to use the keyboard for. Gamers who value speed and accuracy will likely prefer linear switches, while typists and writers may prefer tactile switches for their tactile feedback and comfort. Regardless of which type of switch you choose, both offer high-quality typing experiences that are sure to make your keyboard use more enjoyable. You can check out Akkogear.eu for more switches and for your first order use coupon HELLOAKKO to get 10% off.

I have covered various Akko keyboards on this website and have been mostly satisfied with them. Akko offers keyboards in various price ranges and designs. The top of the line products are their DIY models which offer premium materials. There were two things missing from these boards though; a south-facing layout and the compatibility with VIA/QMK software. Akko introduced a south-facing layout in their latest version of the MOD series, the MOD007s V2 (review). Well the last hurdle is finally taken. Meet the MonsGeek M1.

Akko or MonsGeek?

MonsGeek is a new company launched as a sister brand to Akko. MonsGeek intends to provide high quality products at an affordable price. The name is combination of the word Monster and Geek. With the experience and expertise of Akko behind it MonsGeek is able to offer high quality materials and focus more on a select range of products for enthusiasts. My guess is Akko will keep focusing more on its colorful products and collaborations with populair anime shows and themed keycaps whereas MonsGeek will keep things more simple and focus on materials vs price. The MonsGeek M1 is the first of a range of upcoming products.

“Inspired by a combination of the sheer power of a Monster and the technological prowess of a Geek; MonsGeek has shaped its own way by connecting our streamlined supply chains, which has allowed us to reduce manufacturing costs and be able to offer quality products at an accessible price for everyone.

Quality peripherals should be accessible to all, not only to a select few…

Monsgeek invests in innovation in order to propel the future of peripherals, while filling a gap in the industry and raising the bar for all.“

Letting the Monster out

The Keyboard comes in a nice bog black box which a carton wrapper around it. Inside the Keyboard is covered by protective material and a dustcover while sitting nice and firm in a thick foam package. Next to the keyboard a coiled USB-C to USB-A cable can be found. This Cabe is rubberized and gets the job done. Ofcourse there are nice looking cables around but to be honest one should not expect a premium aviator style cable in this price-range. The keyboard is pre-assembled but cannot be used yet. You will first need to add some stabilizers. The keyboard supports plate mounted as well as screw-in stabilizers, the latter being included. These don’t come pre-assembled because most enthusiasts will want to lube these first. There are also some stabilizer pads and a sheet of painters tape included for optional mods. The board itself is very heavy and sturdy and has some nice details with the gold colored metal bars on both sides.

Assembling the Monsgeek M1

The first thing I did after taking the board apart was lubing the stabilizers. I used some G205g0 for the housing and Dielectric grease for the wires. I didn’t do a Holee Mod though. I figured I could always do this later if I would experience any serious rattling. I did use the included stabilizer pads. After assembling the stabilizers I decided to use the included foams and let the sheet of painters tape for what it is. This is all personal and you might like to include or discard these parts as you like. I ended up using some of the stabilizer pads near the screw holes of the keyboard to avoid that annoying ping that metal on metal can cause. An optional sheet of transparent plastic material is included which should help avoid any risks of damage by shortcuts. You can see it in the image below. It is already pre-cut so the connection wire will have no issues getting where it needs to go.

Switches

Akko send me their new custom made Snow Blue Grey switch. This switch is a linear switch with an operating force of 43 grams, a total travel distance of around 4 mm and a pre travel of around 1.9 mm. These switches are made of a POM stem, a PC top and PA bottom. The spring is an 18mm extended spring. These switches feel very nice out of the box but would benefit from lubing. The thing that gives these switches the most appeal is the colorway. They will not be a replacement for my beloved Jelly Black switches though, which feel smoother to me. Switches are very personal though. I can definitely recommend these switches if you are looking for a nice linear switch to complement your themed build. Lubing will get the most of these though.

Putting some keycaps in the Monsgeek M1

What is a keyboard without keycaps? This time I used a set of ABS keycaps. I usually go with double shot PBT keycaps but I wanted to try out some of Akko’s double shot ABS kits for a while. These Ocean Star keycaps look very nice in a white casing. The first thing I noticed was that these ABS keys don’t come in the same premium box with magnets like their more expensive PBT brothers and sisters. But they still come well packed in plastic covers and each layer comes with a protective sheet of foam. The keycaps feel a bit lighter then the PBT caps but not flimsy or cheap. I could not find any faults in the paintjob or shape and the package is really complete. You get all the standard keycaps but the set also comes with various types of spacebar sizes, mac-keys and ofcourse some nice novelty keycaps.

The Ocean star keycaps are made with the SAL profile which is a bit larger then the ASA profile most Akko keycaps have and the standard rows are all flattened out apart from the F and J keys which are slightly curved in to help your fingers find their way. The keycaps felt pleasant and adjusting wasn’t hard for me.

Software

One of the things people complained about with the Akko brand was the lack of VIA/QMK support. Luckily the first keyboard from their sister company MonsGeek comes with VIA support! I downloaded the via software for the board (here) and the board was instantly recognized. While the Akko cloud software was not the worst I have experienced this is definitely a step up. With VIA its incredibly easy to tune the keyboard to your own liking. You can assign keys, macro’s, change to split keyboards and ISO layout and test your keys. You can also tune the RGB settings of your keyboard in VIA and I noticed the RGB looked a bit better then it does on my MOD007 keyboard. The latter seemed to have a bit of a strobing effect sometimes which isn’t present here.

Final thoughts

The MonsGeek M1 is a solid debut for the brand. It is build like a tank and borrows a lot of its design from the popular MOD007 series. Small improvements have been made like finetuning the knob and adding some extra’s like screw in stabs, stabilizer pads and a sheet for tape mods. Ofcourse Monsgeek made sure the keyboard has a south-facing layout so compatibility is not an issue with any keycaps. The real game changer here is the inclusion of VIA support which was something people requested for a long time on Akko products. If MonsGeek is able to build forward from this solid entry and keep the price competitive brands like Keychron should be worried. While Keychron makes very nice and solid keyboards MonsGeek has the supply chains from Akko behind it with a lot of choice between keycaps and switches. If MonsGeek wants to really be competitive they would be wise to offer some complete kits as well for a small increase in price as an option.

Pricing and availability

The MonsGeek M1 retails for $99,- or €129,99 in Europe without taxes. Citizens in the U.S. can order from Monsgeek.com while people in Europe can order from Akkogear.eu

Get 10% off limited time only

For a limited time only you can get 10% off the Monsgeek M1 on Akkogear.de using the coupon HELLOAKKO on checkout or using this link. Akkogear.eu ships worldwide.

The Akko CS Silver switches came with my Akko 3098B keyboard. You can find the review of the board here.

I have used Cherry Brown and Gateron brown switches myself in the past, with the latter typing just a bit better. Then moved on to Gateron Yellows. When choosing the keyboard, as mentioned earlier in the review of the keyboard, I opted for the CS silver switches. I had the choice of CS Silver, the Pink and two other switches. The main reason for me to choose the CS silver was the fact that I wanted to try a so-called “fast” switch.

About the Akko CS Silver Switches

The CS silver switches belong to the Custom Switches from Akko. The Custom switches are manufactured as a result of feedback and market research by Akko. Often a switch is taken from the existing line-up and then improved upon. The CS Silver switches have a very short pre-travel of only 1mm and is made of high quality materials.

The stem is made of POM, also called Polyacetal. This material is very sturdy and dimensionally stable and is widely used in mechanical engineering. The top is made of poly-carbonate and the bottom of nylon.

Specs

Using the Akko CS Silver switches

The Silver switches are pleasant to use. In my opinion, they don’t need a lube to remove ping or scratch. But it never hurts. Personally, I noticed that the switches are very sensitive. For me personally, this is not great. I make a lot of typos because of this.

For playing games where speed is a factor, these will be very pleasant. There is no wobble in the switches, this is partly thanks to the dust cover where there is a wall surrounding the stem.

Akko’s switches have a so-called 3-pin system and can therefore be used for almost all hot-swap boards. The CS switches also have a higher stem, so that keycaps with the Cherry profile should not cause any problems.

RGB

The top of the switch is transparent. This allows it to easily let light through. Because the bottom is made of Nylon, it does not allow light to pass through. The difference with the Jelly series is therefore a slightly lower yield of RGB light, although this is still more than enough for most people. If you do like RGB you should check out this ACR set!

Final thoughts

The CS silver switches are perfect for the gamers who want to transfer their actions from fingers to game as quickly as possible. The switch activates itself at the lightest touch. There is hardly a pre-travel. As mentioned earlier, lubing is not a must with this switch. Due to the material used and the quality of production, it is already very smooth. This is my personal opinion, of course.

For people who mainly type, another switch from the Akko range will probably be better suited. Linear alternatives are, for example, the V3 Cream Yellow or the hand-lubed CS Piano. For lovers of Tactile, these are for example the Gateron Orange or Akko POM Brown.

I have been using the Jelly Purple switches for a while now on a daily basis. The Jelly Purples rekindled my love for tactile switches. I like my switches to have a little weight or feedback to them. Well fortunately for me the great people at Akko reached out. They gave me the opportunity to review the Jelly Black switches. According to Akko these are their most populair switch at the moment. So lets see if I can stand behind this product, shall we?

Unboxing the Jelly Black

Well, if you’ve read my review about the Jelly Purple switches you know where this is going. Akko’s Jelly Black switches come in a nice little box. The theme is consistent with their keycaps and keyboards. Inside this box are the switches in a nice plastic case. They are not just thrown in a bag like many brands do. Instead they are individually hiding in their own little foxholes. This helps reducing the risk of getting bend pins. Once again all switches came in perfect shape. Kudos to Akko!

Up close and personal

The Jelly Black switches are nice to look at. In the hand they feel solid and there is no obvious ping when pressing them. First impression is that of a smooth transition while being pressed, but definitely with a bit of weight behind them. They have a black stem with a dust cover which also helps against wobble. The translucent housing is made of poly-carbonate material. It has a bit of a smokey color to it, which makes it really classy to look at. The official name of the switches is CS Jelly Black; CS stands for Custom Switches. These are switches made after getting feedback from Akko’s customers.

RGB makes things go brrr

For you RGB lovers out there, here is how they look compared to the Silvers and Purples.

Specs of the Jelly Black switches

As can be seen in the column above, the Jelly Black’s are a heavy switch; in fact these are Akko’s heaviest switches at the moment. For me this was an interesting test as previously I have had experience with a linear switch on the other side of the spectrum; the CS Silver switches. The Silver switches are extremely easy to activate. The biggest difference here is the pre-travel which is 1.0 compared to the 1.9 of the Black. Be sure to check out all the Akko switches here!

Jelly Black and CS silver side to side

Opening both switches with my tool and comparing them side to side, there are some obvious differences. The bottom is made of a grey nylon on the Silvers while the Jelly Black has a pc bottom. Another difference you can see is the pole on the stem which is longer on the Silver switches. Both springs seem to be the same.

My Dutch readers can buy a set with a switch opener along with all the other basic tools here. If you are an international reader check out a great switch opener from Epomaker here.

Lubing the Jelly Black switches

The Jelly Black switches didn’t seem to have much crunch or ping to me. I must admit I am not the most sensitive person out there when it comes to hearing spring ping though. The blacks are a nice feeling switch and I would argue that it is not a must to lube these. Having said that, a little bit of lube never hurts. So I lubed the switches with the well known Krytox G205g0. Lubing made the switches even more smooth, so if you have the time, sure lube them!

Check out my guide if you want know how to lube switches here. Or if you are looking for a nice complete lube kit, check this one out.

Conclusion

So, do I like them? The short answer would be; Yes, I like them, a lot. For me they are not my full keyboard switch though. Let me explain myself a bit here.

I have been using the Black switches for about a week now. Compared to the silver switches I think these are nicer to type on. I tend to make less mistakes because I can actually feel the key that I am pressing. They also sound more “Thocky” then the Silvers do if that is what you are after.

So far I have used four pairs of linear switches; Cherry Red, Gateron Yellow, Akko Silver and Akko Black. Of these switches I find the Blacks the most interesting. If I had to choose a switch between these four for a full layout, I would go with the Gateron Yellow though. The reason behind this, is that I experience some fatigue whilst typing on the blacks after a while but your mileage may vary.

For people who don’t really like tactile switches but do want to feel a bit of force while using their board these can the perfect solution.

Keep in mind though that the extra force needed can be a bit of a downside for those having to type for long sessions or playing fast FPS games.

My current daily is an Akko 3098B (review here) with the Akko Jelly Purple and for the numpad and F-row I use the Akko Jelly Blacks. These are perfect for me when crunching numbers for example.

Coupon

If you want to get 10% off on any purchase on Akkogear.eu just use coupon HELLOAKKO or use this link.

Disclaimer

This product was send to me by the Akko. Opinions are my own. This review may contain referral links. By using these links you support this website and allow us to get products in for review and testing.

Intro

Dive into the world of mechanical keyboards and soon you will read about people lubing switches.
People will talk about things like smoothness, spring-ping, switch openers. You might start to feel overwhelmed or unsure. You may ask yourself: “Can’t I just use my mechanical keyboard the way it is, what lube do I need, what tools do I need?’
In this article I will try to explain a bit about lubing along with some advice about what to look for.

The purpose of lubing switches.

The main purpose of lubing switches is to make keypresses feel more smooth and consistent. When lubed up the stem will slide in and out the housing a lot easier. The Crunchy sounds from bottoming out can also be reduced significantly.

You can always buy pre-lubed switches. However, lubing switches is also an important part for enthousiasts to make their keyboard feel unique

What do you need for lubing your switches?

Types of lubricant

If you are going to lube your switches it is important to choose the right lube. If your switch is of the tactile kind you will want a thinner lube. On the other hand when lubing a linear switch you should go for a bit thicker substance. For best results lubing the springs should be done with an oil-like substance.

Tactile switches

My go to lubricant for tactile switches is Trybosis 3203. It gets the switch smoother without reducing the tactile feeling. That is, if you lube it right, more on that later.
Thanks to its low viscosity it is quite easy to apply with a brush.

Linear switches

For linear switches the most used lube is Krytox GPL205 grade 0. This lube has more viscosity and is more buttery-like. An alternative to this could be Trybosis 3204. Linear switches are a bit easier to lube in that you don’t have to worry about not getting the stuff on the stem legs.

Clicky switches

Personally I’d leave these alone. But if you want to lube these do the same as with the tactiles.

Springs

For the springs I recommend Krytox 105. Since The springs need to be as flexible as possible a thin oil is preferred here over a thicker lube.

What you need

Lubricant

First off you will need your choice of lubricant. For tactile switches Trybosis 3203. For linear Krytox GPL205 or Krytox 3204 and Krytox 105 for springs.

Brushes

I recommend at least two small brushes. Grade 0 or 00 for example.

Switch opener for mechanical keyboard switches

A switch opener lets you open up the switches easy, fast and safe. There are several options here for example one from Homepage Homepage” target=”_blank” rel=”noreferrer noopener nofollow sponsored”>Ali-express or Epomaker.

Switch puller

For taking out your switches you will need a switch puller. I recommend something like this. Its a lot less prone to making scratches then some other alternatives and gets your switches out easy. An alternative is this 2-in-1 from Epomaker.

Jewelry crown

This is a handy tool to pick up your stem without getting the grease all over your fingers.

Tip: here you can find a complete package!

Shout out to Alex from Phoberos, Real cool guy who sells genuine lube on Etsy. He delivered fantastic service when my lube got lost in transit.

Optional

A Lubing station is an optional accessory which can come in handy while lubing a lot of switches at a time and you want to put the parts away safely.

Lubing the switches

Opening up your mechanical keyboard switches

Open up the switches by putting the switch in the opener and gently press down until the top housing gets off. After gently removing the top take out the stem and spring.

Housing

When lubing the housing a tend to do this only with the bottom of the housing. First paint on of the sides, then the other and then gently go around the outside of the center hole. All this with a very thin layer, you should not see any white residue.

Stem

Spring

The springs can be lubed with a brush but to avoid this tedious task many people tend to “bag-lube” the springs. Simply put about a pea-size of Krytox 105 in the bag and “paint” the inside of the bag. After this put the springs in, ad a bit of air by blowing in it and shake that thing!

Done

And that’s it! you can put your switches bag together and enjoy the smoothness!

Disclaimer

Opinions are my own. This article may contain referral links. By using these links you support this website and allow us to get products in for review and testing.